From left to right: textile work by Marta Palau, "A Night We Held Between" by Noor Abed, and film still by Sara Gómez.
Museu Tàpies is currently hosting several can’t-miss exhibitions, including a solo show by Palestinian filmmaker Noor Abed and a retrospective of the late Mexican-Catalan textile artist Marta Palau.
This week, Palau de la Virreina opens the most comprehensive retrospective to date of Afro-Cuban filmmaker Sara Gómez, a key figure in Cuban documentary cinema of the 1960s and ’70s.
As part of its 50th anniversary celebrations, the Fundació Joan Miró is restaging landmark exhibitions by pioneering Spanish artists Fina Miralles, Susana Solano, and Eva Lootz.
Dropping Anchor on Costa Brava’s Wild Northern Edge
Images courtesy of Re Mei
It’s only mid-April, but we’ve already started sketching out summer plans. Over dinner last weekend with our friends Jen and Xavi, we revisited an idea we first floated last year: to charter a boat and sail along the northern stretch of the Costa Brava, starting in Cadaqués and continuing up toward the Cap de Creus Natural Park near the French border. Below, a few new spots I’m looking forward to checking out on that trip — and others I’ll be saving for return visits later this summer.
The family-run restaurant Re Mei is a Cadaqués institution, with a history stretching back generations and a guestbook that includes Dalí, Picasso, and García Lorca. Following a period of closure, the restaurant recently reopened inside a modernized fisherman’s hut on Riba des Pianc, with a handful of tables spilling onto the waterfront promenade and a charming interior sala featuring Santa & Cole lighting, stone walls, and olive-green banquettes. As ever, the food is the main draw: gillardeau oysters with celery and anise, squid stuffed with perol sausage, and flan de ratafia made with the traditional Catalan liqueur (an infusion of green walnuts, lemon peel, cinnamon, and cloves).
In Llançà, about 30 minutes north of Cadaqués, chef Paco Pérez of the two-Michelin-starred Miramar has opened a Mà (“By Hand” in Catalan), a bakery where locals queue for croissants, ensaïmadas, freshly baked loaves, jam made with Empordà apples, and Pérez’s secret garum — a fermented fish sauce used to add umami to glazes, tarts, and savory pastries.
On the northern side of the peninsula lies El Port de la Selva, a quiet fishing town with excellent hiking trails, tucked-away beaches, and — now — a detour-worthy design boutique. La Salvatge showcases a curated edit of homegrown objects: sculptural beeswax candles by Barcelona artist Maria Felices, Mallorcan glassware by Lafiore, and ceramics from Alicante’s 18th-century La Navà workshop.
The Emporiom wellness event, hosted amid Greek and Roman ruins.
About an hour south of Cadaqués is Empúries, the only archaeological site on the Iberian Peninsula where Greek and Roman ruins coexist. On June 14–15, it hosts the fourth edition of Emporiom, a yoga and wellness event featuring meditation, classical music, and kundalini and vinyasa flows amid the seafront ruins. The nearby Hostal Empúries (from €150/night), just five minutes from the site, remains the ideal base, offering direct beach access, stylish waterfront rooms, and a strong yoga program year-round. Or for more privacy, you can book the property’s stunning four-bedroom Empordà farmhouse, Ca la Solita (from €550/night), just a few kilometers inland.
Studio Visits with a Sharp-Eyed Local
Where ancient coins become contemporary jewels: Assumpta Bou's studio-shop in the Gothic Quarter
Last weekend, I met up with journalist Suzanne Wales at the Design Museum. Originally from Melbourne, Suzanne moved to Barcelona during the 1992 Olympics and has been covering the city’s design scene ever since for magazines like Wallpaper and Metropolis. Her debut book, “Made in Spain” (2023), is an authoritative guide to the country’s most innovative and enduring craft traditions. Her knowledge was immediately evident as we wandered through the museum’s excellent gift shop, where she pointed out Álvaro Catalán de Ocón’s PET Lamp fixtures, made from recycled plastic bottles, and Teixidors’ handwoven blankets, crafted on antique looms by neurodiverse artisans. It was a small taste of what Suzanne offers through her private design and architecture tours, which you can book/read more about here. While many clients request the usual Gaudí circuit, she offers something rarer — insider access to Barcelona’s top contemporary workshops. She’s on a first-name basis with many of the city’s leading makers, including Catalan-Uruguayan duo behind Eliurpi, known for their sculptural hats that straddle fashion and art, and jeweler Assumpta Bou, who works out of a 16th-century monastery near the cathedral, crafting archaeological-inspired pieces using Greek and Roman coins. Hearing about these workshops made me realize how much of Barcelona’s creative scene still unfolds behind closed doors, and how valuable it is to explore it with someone who knows where to look.
What’s Cooking in Poblenou
Nomad; Metl
When we moved to Poblenou three and a half years ago, the neighborhood — a former industrial area about 20 minutes from the city center — already had a solid lineup of reliable, old-school spots where you could get a good menú del día. But in the past few years, the dining scene has taken off. Walking around Carrer de Pujades now, it’s hard to keep up with how many new places have opened. In typical Poblenou fashion, many of the most interesting places are hidden or tucked behind nondescript façades, like the private Ona dinners, which center on seasonal, foraged ingredients from the Catalan countryside. While I haven’t been to one of those dinners yet, here are a few places I’ve been enjoying lately (in addition to other neighborhood favorites I’ve already written about, like Amateur, Achaar, Masa Vins, and Lola Divine):
Last weekend we had lunch at the new Catalan bistro l'Entrepreneur.Everyone in there was speaking Catalan or Spanish (a good sign), the décor is traditional and a little reminiscent of being on the Costa Brava, and it’s the best tortilla de patatas with caramelized onions I’ve had in recent memory.
Metl is a small, vibey Mexican restaurant near the always-good House of Rowdy vintage store. Order the smoked guacamole and the fish tostadas with recado negro sauce, made from ancho, guajillo, and habanero chiles.
Pècora cafe; blue corn masa sope with lard refried beans and burrata at Metl
The HQ of NOMAD, the award-winning Barcelona coffee roastery, is buzzier than ever following a revamp by local designers Jordi Veciana and Skye Maunsell. I loved the original look, but the updated space — anchored by an elegant wood-clad coffee bar — adds a layer of refinement to a neighborhood better known for its industrial architecture. The coffee is excellent, and it’s the perfect spot for a quick lunch or coffee date with a friend.
If I’m craving something sweet: Bricks Café for banana bread with cardamom and vanilla cream, Pècora for cinnamon rolls, and Sin Amor for cookies.
Burgers, macerated wine, and vinyl music at Fiffty Fiffty. The gourmet sandwiches next door at Sandwich Club are also fantastic. Both are casual spots perfect for easygoing lunch or dinner with friends.
Gegant is a new Catalan bistro that feels a little nostalgic and quietly romantic. It’s the latest venture from three big names in the local scene: Jordi Mestres (co-founder of NOMAD), sommelier Ivan Fernández (formerly of 035 in Sagrera), and chef Joan Vallés, who led the kitchen at Fermí Puig in his early twenties. The menu features hearty Catalan staples like cap i pota stew with silky chickpeas or xatonada with mackerel, anchovies, olives, black trumpets, and a swipe of romesco. Everything was delicious — I’m already planning a return visit for the €22.50 lunch tasting menu with wine pairings.
The Perks of Renovation
Inside Albert's studio; the Granada-born brand Alp is one of Europe's largest handcrafted rug producers.
One unexpected upside of renovating? Finally having an excuse to visit all the design showrooms I’ve had bookmarked for years. One favorite so far has been Cubiñá, a multi-brand design showroom housed in a heritage-listed Eixample building by Lluís Domènech i Montaner. The space is astounding, with stained-glass windows, wrought-iron balustrades, and some of the most beautiful built-in wooden cabinetry I’ve ever seen. Even if you’re not in the middle of a renovation, it’s worth stopping by. I also loved visiting Alp, the Granada-born textile brand that’s over a century old. They specialize in traditional techniques like the Alpujarra and Ghiordés knots, as well as hand-tufted designs. The level of craftsmanship is extraordinary, and the rugs are truly works of art.
Albert Riera Galceran; image courtesy of Brian Ferry
But the real highlight was visiting the Hospitalet studio of Albert Riera Galceran, a Barcelona-born, Central Saint Martins–trained artist whose practice spans abstract painting, ceramics, collage, even fashion. He’s collaborated with brands like Santa & Cole and Rimowa, appeared in a Missoni campaign, and exhibited at Galeria Nueva in Madrid and Mana Contemporary in New York. Touring his atelier-home offered a glimpse into his creative world, shaped in part by his grandmother — an artist herself — who was friends with Tàpies and other greats of her generation. Albert also spoke about L’Hospitalet, a municipality within the Barcelona metropolitan area, and how it’s becoming one of the city’s emerging art hubs, with artists like Lúa Coderch and Carles Gabarró working out of studios there, and galleries such as Barsa and Ana Mas Projects opening their doors.
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Loved this guide! I would just add Aeroclub Empordà Yoga with Nina Manich, such a delight!
loving this entry and making notes on some of the stuff that is new to me as well ;)